ANNOUNCEMENT

Dear loyal readers,

I will no longer be updating SavoirVivre New York; instead I have launched a new online men's fashion magazine called GARÇON MAGAZINE that I hope you will follow me to.

I have been using Blogger for over a year and while it was a great starting tool, it has ultimately become constraining. If you follow via RSS, please update your feed to the new website. I have big plans for Garçon Mag so stay tuned for exciting things!

Thank you,
Adrien Field

Hugo by Hugo Boss Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

Thanks to Barack Obama, we know what kind of change one person is able to make. Similarly at Hugo Boss, new creative director Bruno Pieters radically transformed the aesthetic of the mostly traditional brand, infusing a jolt of avant-garde flair.

Tony Soprano was famously a fan of the American brand on the show but it is unlikely he would be able to squeeze a single be-ringed finger into one leg of the models' body contouring skinnies. Powerful visual effects were created by jarring patterns that when juxtaposed sent the eyes into a frenzy.

There was a strong structural element that ran through the collection: from the Teutonic black jacket that was reminiscent of last year's women's Balenciaga to the dramatic straight lines and right angles, it had all the precision of a German mind.

One of the most powerful collections of the season thus far without a doubt. Amazing.

Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

'Austere' may or may not be le mot juste to describe the Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter collection shown yesterday in Paris, but it does seem like a bit of the overwhelming global anxiety managed to seep into the design aesthetic.

Rather than the opulently luxuriousness usually displayed chez Vuitton, this season was more subdued and understated than previous collections. From the ragamuffin hats to the deconstructed boxy shapes, there was a definite feeling of departure from the 'international playboy' that seemed to characterize last year's collection.

Besides a few key pieces such as an immaculately tailored overcoat and a few trousers and tops, the collection doesn't seem like it will be easily translated from the runway to the store racks. The overall feeling was one of stultified stodginess where a grandfatherly look reigned supreme in items like a ribbed knit cardigan with oversized front pockets and unattractive button-up eighteenth century-esque bright orange jacket.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Versace Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

Versace's Fall/Winter 2009 men's collection was an experiment in power dressing. From bold winter whites to grownup trousers and aggressively tailored outwear, the man Donatella no doubt in mind was the confident, mature alpha-male she's been known to attract--and be attracted to.

The clothes seemed to evoke a South American jet-setting baron with a budget to burn and status to uphold. It is a man stepping in and out of a chauffeured Mercedes to and from business meetings and power lunches at L'Avenue in Paris and the Dorchester in London.

There were a few faux pas like a white sweater with trompe l'oeil detailing to resemble a cardigan that looked frilly and superfluous as well as a leather drawstring vest--or vestige, more like it, from Versace's Eurotrash days.

Overall though, the collection was well edited and featured an abundance of envy-worthy pieces.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Gucci Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

It's official: Frida Giannini is a goddess. Gucci's Fall/Winter 2009 men's collection was absolutely pitch perfect on every account. The attitude was punk-nouveau with anorexic silhouettes à la Mick Jagger and Sid Vicious.

In fact, a Mick lookalike was notably present on the runway in skin-tight leggings and black fur (first picture, left). Punk elements were visible also in a black leopard print sweater, chains and pants so tight they appeared to be liquid leather leggings adapted for men.

The collection contained the Gucci staples like slimly tailored suits, contrast collar shirts and cigarette trousers for a look that was both classically wearable and eminently cool.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Roberto Cavalli Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

A reader might be interested to know that the first ever piece of designer clothing that I ever coveted was a black Roberto Cavalli crinkle shirt that I obsessed over online at Neiman Marcus.

My, how times have changed. Cavalli's Fall/Winter '09 show was a mash up of unrelated styles and elements that together formed a disjointed and slightly ridiculous collection. The Navajo prints were simply beyond unattractive and seemed utterly out of place with the rest of the collection, which had more of a gypsy/punk feel (a strange juxtaposition--I know).

To be fair, there were a few single pieces that stood out such as a green velvet blazer and a coyote fur trim coat. I give props to any designer sticking to their guns about using fur.

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Neil Barrett Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

It's officially a trend: Goth is back. There was a minimalist vibe that ran through Neil Barrett's Fall/Winter collection, consisting almost uniquely of black and gray scale colors except for a rare splash of salmon on a jacket or pair of trousers.

Interesting trends were the high-cut trousers that ended north of the ankle to showcase what looked like leggings underneath as well as the pants with banded cuffs at the bottoms.

Barrett and Miuccia Prada must have been operating on the same wavelength as both showed inventive uses of leather, such as on a cable-knit-look sweater and the same effect on a sport coat. There were also the metal-studded shoes that were a hallmark of the Prada F/W '09 collection.

Also present in the collection were the alternating color blocks on everything from jackets to cardigans and sweaters that we saw a few seasons ago chez Marc Jacobs. Ultimately, the collection left something to be desired. Sure the leather sweaters were...inventive but who is going to go out and buy one? There just weren't any truly tempting pieces in the collection with that "must-have" feel--and in this economy where shoppers are more frugal than ever, will Barrett regret his obsession with innovation over consumer intuition?

Images courtesy of men.style.com

Dolce and Gabanna Fall/Winter 2009 Men's Collection

Dolce and Gabbana's collection is usually one of the best trend barometers for predicting what we'll be wearing next season, but this season, one might have guessed that the Italian duo worked on the collection separately, then threw everything together last minute and hoped for cohesiveness.

Indeed, the collection ran the gamut--from beautifully tailored classic pieces like slim cut suits in dark hues to loud fuchsias and then quilted pants that looked like something so ridiculous only Kira Plastinina could have dreamt them up--there was a little something for everyone.

Admittedly, the quilting technique was interesting when interpreted in a slightly more subtle form as seen on a jacket above. The best and most interesting aspect of the collection was by far the basket weaving technique on tuxedo jackets--that gave the venerable old staple a renewed vitality and panache.

The collection seemed to have its mind in comfort: the quilts, wide legged pants and use of soft fabrics like velvets and baggy knits all seemed in divergence with the skinny-suited Dolce and Gabbana man of yore.

Images courtesy of men.style.com